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Journal — menorca

Menorca: the quiet Balearic, and why the south coast books first

No high-rises, no superclubs, and calas you walk to. What a Menorca villa week looks like, and which coast to take.

Menorca: the quiet Balearic, and why the south coast books first

Menorca is the Balearic that decided not to grow. A UNESCO biosphere designation in 1993 capped development, which is why the island still reads as farmland running into sandstone coves rather than a coastline of resorts.

The south coast — Binibeca, Cala Macarella, Son Bou — has the pale sand and the turquoise water people picture. The north is darker, rockier and windier, with Cala Pregonda's red sand and far fewer boats. Villas on the south book earliest; the north gives you space in August at a lower rate if you do not mind driving to swim.

Plan the week around water. A day boat from Ciutadella or Mahon reaches the calas that have no road at all, and those are the ones guests remember. Book the boat before the villa week starts — the good skippers go in April.

Eat in Mahon's port for the lobster caldereta, in Fornells for the same dish done plainer, and do one long lunch at a finca restaurant inland. Menorca is small enough that nothing is more than forty minutes away, so a house with a good kitchen garden and shade matters more than a central address.